Too little water within the hair fiber results in brittleness and a higher level of breakage, while too much water within the hair can cause the cortex to swell to the point of lifting cuticles and causing a roughened, dull surface. The chemical composition of hair requires a balance of protein and water to maintain structure and flexibility. Generally, the consumer’s primary requirement of a conditioning product is that it adds moisture to the hair. Recent advances in the study of proteins (proteomics) has enabled the selection and creation of high molecular weight proteins that specifically replicate those found naturally in the hair to create biomimetic replacement treatments for damaged hair. Proteins with low molecular weights are small enough to penetrate the hair cuticle to deliver moisturizing benefits within the hair itself, while those with higher molecular weights have film-forming attributes that can repair and protect the cuticle. The function of proteins in hair care is largely dependent upon the size of the molecules and whether they pass into to the hair’s cortex or remain on the surface. This makes proteins and amino acids ideally suited for use in hair care products because of their close match in chemical structure with the hair fiber. Hair fibers are largely composed of keratin proteins that contribute to strength and flexibility.
Larger chains of these peptides are called polypeptides these either alone or linked together are what we call proteins.
The most basic component of proteins, amino acids, are organic compounds that form amide bonds to create peptides. Proteins are found in all living cells, both plant and animal, and serve necessary functions in all biological processes. Among the many applications for these naturally-derived ingredients, proteins have the ability to impart a multitude of conditioning benefits to hair because of the close similarity of their chemical composition to that of the hair. The performance benefits of both animal and plant-based protein biopolymers have been known to personal care formulators for decades. The need to deliver shine, softness and ease of styling to hair demands the use of conditioning agents that moisturize, plasticize, repair and protect the hair. The consumer desire for naturally healthy-looking hair is a constant that has remained an undercurrent through the many trends affecting the hair care market over the years.
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